How to Choose Fabric for a Clothing Brand.
Fabric selection determines your garment's drape, handfeel, retail durability, and unit cost. Learn how to evaluate fibers, GSM weights, and mill sourcing parameters.
General industry knowledge • Reviewed by Fenalt editorial team
Fabric accounts for 60% to 70% of a garment's FOB production cost and defines retail quality perception at first touch.
Choosing the wrong fabric is one of the costliest errors a fashion brand can make. A design drafted for a rigid 450 GSM French Terry will sag if sewn in a lightweight 240 GSM jersey. Evaluating fiber composition, fabric weight, drape, and mill minimums before sampling ensures your apparel line meets aesthetic and financial targets.
Evaluation Criteria
6 Factors When Choosing Apparel Fabrics
1. Fibre Composition & Origin
Natural fibres (combed cotton, organic cotton, linen) offer superior breathability and soft handfeel. Synthetics (polyester, nylon, spandex) deliver moisture-wicking and elastic recovery. Blends balance durability, softness, and cost.
2. Fabric Construction (Knit vs Woven)
Knitted fabrics (single jersey, French Terry, fleece, piqué, 2x2 rib) loop yarns together for natural stretch and drape. Woven fabrics (denim, twill, canvas, poplin) interlace warp and weft yarns for structural rigidity.
3. Fabric Weight (GSM / Ounces)
Grams per Square Metre (GSM) measures fabric thickness. T-shirts range from 180 GSM (lightweight) to 300 GSM (heavyweight streetwear). Hoodies range from 350 GSM to 480+ GSM French Terry.
4. Fabric Drape, Stretch & Elastic Recovery
Assess how the fabric hangs on the body. Knits with 3% to 5% spandex provide 4-way stretch for activewear, whereas 100% rigid cotton French Terry holds boxy streetwear silhouettes.
5. Dyeing, Washing & Print Receptivity
Determine how the fabric accepts embellishments. 100% combed cotton yields bright screen print and DTG ink clarity; polyester requires disperse dyes; pigment garment washes produce vintage faded aesthetics.
6. Mill Minimums (MOQs) & Sourcing Availability
Stock mill fabrics allow low MOQ purchasing (50 to 100 metres); custom-milled, custom-knitted, or custom-dyed fabrics require mill minimums of 300kg to 500kg per dye lot.
Category Reference
Fabric Selection Matrix by Product Category
| Category | Recommended Fabric | Target Weight | Key Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heavyweight Streetwear Tees | 100% Combed Cotton Single Jersey | 240 GSM – 300 GSM | Substantial handfeel, tight knit density, minimal show-through, structured boxy fit. |
| Luxury Hoodies & Sweatpants | 100% Cotton French Terry or Brushed Fleece | 400 GSM – 480 GSM | Unbrushed loopback interior for structure, or brushed fleece for plush warmth; paired with 400 GSM 2x2 ribbing. |
| Performance Activewear | Nylon-Spandex or Polyester-Spandex Interlock | 220 GSM – 280 GSM | 4-way stretch, moisture-wicking finish, squat-proof opacity, flatlock seam compatibility. |
| Boutique Shirts & Outerwear | Cotton Twill, Linen Blends, or Rigid Denim | 180 GSM – 400 GSM (6oz – 14oz) | Clean woven structure, high tensile strength, garment wash compatibility. |
Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best fabric for luxury streetwear hoodies?
100% combed cotton French Terry or heavy fleece weighing between 400 GSM and 480+ GSM, paired with heavy 400 GSM 2x2 cotton/spandex ribbing at cuffs and waistband, is the industry standard for luxury streetwear hoodies.
How can I test fabric quality before ordering bulk?
Request physical swatch headers or sample yardage cuts. Conduct a 3x laundering test to measure dimensional shrinkage, inspect for pilling after friction rubbing, and verify colorfastness against washing.
What is the difference between single jersey and French Terry?
Single jersey is a flat, lightweight knit fabric with a smooth front and back, used primarily for t-shirts. French Terry is a heavier knit fabric with a smooth exterior face and unbrushed thread loops on the interior, used for premium sweatshirts and hoodies.
Why do custom fabric colors require high MOQs?
Custom fabric colors require dyeing full industrial dye vats (typically 300kg to 500kg of fabric per dye lot). For lower order quantities, brands use stock-dyed mill colors to avoid high minimum run surcharges.
How does fabric GSM affect per-unit manufacturing cost?
Heavier GSM fabrics require more raw cotton yarn by weight and incur higher freight charges per unit. Fabric typically accounts for 60% to 70% of a garment's FOB manufacturing price.
How does Fenalt handle raw fabric sourcing in Bangladesh?
Fenalt's Dhaka sourcing team inspects raw fabric rolls, conducts lab-dip color matching against Pantone references, verifies GSM weight, and manages textile procurement with audited Bangladesh mills.
Source premium fabrics in Bangladesh
Fenalt inspects raw fabric rolls, conducts lab dip dyeing, and manages mill procurement for international apparel brands in Dhaka.
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