Cotton Fabric Types Explained for Fashion Brands.
A technical guide to cotton knits and wovens - Single Jersey, Interlock, French Terry, Fleece, Piqué, Ribbing, Twill, and Canvas.
General industry knowledge • Reviewed by Fenalt editorial team
Cotton is the world's most versatile apparel fibre, but its performance depends on knit or woven construction and GSM weight.
Understanding the difference between cotton knits (such as jersey, French Terry, and interlock) and cotton wovens (such as twill and canvas) allows fashion founders to specify exact fabric structures in their tech packs - ensuring garments drape, stretch, and perform as intended.
Master Fabric Catalog
8 Essential Cotton Fabric Constructions
1. Single Jersey (180 GSM – 300 GSM)
KnitBest For: Standard & heavyweight t-shirts, tank tops, jersey linings.
Single knit construction with a smooth flat front face and characteristic V-shaped loop stitches on the reverse. Lightweight jersey (180 GSM) provides soft breathability; heavy jersey (240–300 GSM) holds structured streetwear silhouettes.
2. French Terry (320 GSM – 480 GSM)
KnitBest For: Mid-to-heavyweight hoodies, crewneck sweatshirts, lounge pants.
3-end knit fabric featuring a smooth exterior face and unbrushed soft yarn loops on the interior. Offers excellent moisture absorption, breathability, and mid-to-heavy thermal weight.
3. Brushed Fleece (350 GSM – 500 GSM)
KnitBest For: Winter sweatshirts, plush hoodies, heavy tracksuits.
Constructed similarly to French Terry, but the interior yarn loops undergo a wire-brushing process to create a dense, soft, plush fleece interior that traps body heat.
4. Interlock Knit (220 GSM – 320 GSM)
KnitBest For: Luxury heavyweight t-shirts, double-face knitwear, babywear.
Double-knit construction featuring a smooth, identical face on both front and back. Thicker, heavier, and less prone to curling at cut edges than single jersey.
5. Cotton Piqué (200 GSM – 280 GSM)
KnitBest For: Polo shirts, sportswear, textured casual tops.
Waffle-like or honeycomb textured knit with raised geometric patterns that enhance airflow and structural stability.
6. 2x2 Cotton Ribbing (350 GSM – 450 GSM)
KnitBest For: Neck collars, sleeve cuffs, waistband trims for hoodies and sweatshirts.
Alternating knit-and-purl rib construction with high elasticity and stretch recovery, usually blended with 5% spandex to prevent collar baconing.
7. Cotton Twill (240 GSM – 400 GSM)
WovenBest For: Chino pants, cargo trousers, overshirts, dad hats, jackets.
Woven fabric with a distinct diagonal parallel rib pattern (twill weave). Offers high tear resistance, structural body, and excellent garment wash compatibility.
8. Cotton Canvas & Heavy Denim (300 GSM – 500+ GSM / 10oz – 14.5oz)
WovenBest For: Workwear jackets, heavy carpenter pants, tote bags.
Durable plain or twill weave using coarse cotton yarns for maximum abrasion resistance and heavy utility garment construction.
Structural Comparison
Cotton Knits vs Cotton Wovens
| Aspect | Cotton Knits | Cotton Wovens |
|---|---|---|
| Stretching & Elasticity | Inherent 2-way or 4-way stretch due to looped yarn structure. | Rigid structure with minimal stretch unless elastane/spandex is added. |
| Wrinkle Resistance | Resists wrinkling naturally and recovers shape quickly. | Prone to creasing; requires pressing or heat setting. |
| Primary Garment Types | T-shirts, hoodies, sweatpants, activewear, socks. | Jeans, chinos, formal shirts, workwear jackets, tailored trousers. |
| Edge Fraying & Cutting | Edges curl when stretched but do not fray into loose threads. | Raw cut edges fray easily; requires overlocking or flat-felled seam finishes. |
Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between French Terry and Brushed Fleece?
French Terry features unbrushed yarn loops on the interior for breathable, year-round comfort. Brushed Fleece takes those interior loops and wire-brushes them into a soft, fuzzy pile that provides maximum thermal insulation.
Why is combed cotton superior to carded cotton?
Combed cotton undergoes an extra refining step during spinning that removes short fibers and raw impurities. This leaves only long, straight fibers that produce smoother, stronger, softer, and more pilling-resistant fabric.
Which cotton fabric is best for heavyweight streetwear t-shirts?
100% combed cotton Single Jersey weighing between 240 GSM and 300 GSM is the industry benchmark for heavyweight streetwear t-shirts, offering clean structure and screen print clarity.
What does yarn count mean (e.g., 20s vs 30s vs 40s)?
Yarn count measures yarn fineness. Higher numbers indicate finer yarn: 20s yarn is thicker and heavier (used in rugged tees), while 30s or 40s combed yarn is finer, creating smoother, premium-touch fabrics.
Does 100% cotton fabric shrink after washing?
Yes. All 100% natural cotton fabrics experience natural shrinkage (typically 3% to 7%) during initial laundering unless the fabric undergoes industrial pre-shrinking, compacting, or silicone wash treatments prior to garment cutting.
How does Fenalt inspect cotton fabrics in Bangladesh?
Fenalt's Dhaka quality inspectors conduct 4-Point System raw fabric roll audits, verify GSM weight, perform lab-dip color matching, and check for fabric width consistency before pattern cutting begins.
Source high-quality cotton fabrics
Fenalt sources combed cotton jersey, heavy French Terry, and custom twill fabrics directly from audited mills in Dhaka.
Submit Your Project