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Brief-led surplus sourcing

Fabric Stocklots & Deadstock Fabric Sourcing

Fenalt reviews finite fabric lots against a garment or material brief. Selection depends on available quantity, color, width, condition and supporting records; stocklot supply is not treated as repeatable mill production.

Sourcing architecture

Virgin fabric and surplus solve different problems

DecisionVirgin fabricStocklot fabric
SpecificationVirgin fabric can be developed to an approved brief.A stocklot is selected from available specifications.
ColorA new shade can be scoped through a development and approval process.The available shade is evaluated as-is.
ContinuityProduction quantities and repeat availability are planned with the mill.A lot is finite; repeat quantity and shade continuity are not assumed.
Risk reviewConfirm the developed sample and agreed bulk standard.Inspect condition, shade groups, usable width and records before commitment.

Available lot types

Understand what sits behind the offer

01

Mill overruns

Excess production from a completed mill run; confirm the full lot record and shade.

02

Cancelled orders

Available fabric made for a prior order; review any brand-specific finish, restrictions or labels.

03

Seconds and mixed lots

Disclose visible or technical variation and assess whether it fits the product brief.

04

Deadstock rolls

Document storage condition, roll lengths, usable width and known material history.

Material review

Treat each recorded lot as its own specification

REVIEW 01

Shade and color

Separate dye lots and record any visible variation before a cutting plan is prepared.

REVIEW 02

Width and yield

Measure usable width and match it with the marker plan; avoid relying on nominal roll width.

REVIEW 03

Composition and history

Compare label or mill documents with any available test record. Unknown history remains unknown until supported.

REVIEW 04

Condition

Record holes, stains, edge damage, skew, storage marks or missing labels.

REVIEW 05

Brand and rights

Confirm seller ownership and any trademark, resale or destination restrictions before purchase.

REVIEW 06

Terms

Set inspection, acceptance, settlement and delivery for the individual lot.

How a request moves

From fabric brief to purchase decision

  1. 01

    Brief

    Share fiber, construction, weight, color, usable width and intended garment.

  2. 02

    Lot search

    Review available lots against the requested product and quantity.

  3. 03

    Evidence

    Check packing list, condition, shade separation and documents available.

  4. 04

    Sample

    Request a physical swatch or sample only when the lot and review plan support it.

  5. 05

    Decision

    Agree lot scope, inspection criteria, logistics and purchase terms in writing.

Technical FAQs

Can I reorder the same fabric if my collection sells out?

Generally, no. The nature of fabric stocklots is that they are finite. Once a specific lot is consumed, it is unlikely to be found again with the exact same color and technical specifications. For brands seeking continuity, we recommend our virgin fabric sourcing services.

How do you handle holes or stains in deadstock fabric?

During the marker making and cutting phase, our technicians use "defect mapping." We either cut around the defects or, if the defect density is too high, we reject that specific section of the roll. This is why we typically recommend a slightly higher fabric buffer (5-10%) when working with stocklots.

Is there a price difference between stocklots and fresh fabric?

Yes. Stocklots are typically priced 30% to 60% lower than fresh-milled fabric. However, some of these savings may be offset by higher labor costs in the cutting room due to the need for careful defect avoidance and shade grouping.

What is the minimum order quantity (MOQ)?

Fenalt maintains a standard MOQ of 50 pieces per style. However, you must purchase the entire available quantity of the stocklot if it is a small lot, as mills rarely sell partial rolls of surplus goods.

Can you provide GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certificates for stocklots?

This is dependent on the source. While many stocklots come from certified mills, the "chain of custody" is often broken when the fabric enters the surplus market. If certification is a mandatory requirement for your brand, we must verify the availability of paperwork during the sourcing phase. [SOURCE REQUIRED: Verification of GRS transferability in secondary markets].

How do you ensure the fabric isn't "old" or degraded?

We perform a "burst test" and "tear strength test" on older stocklots to ensure the fibers haven't become brittle due to improper warehouse storage (heat or humidity).

What happens if the fabric shrinkage is too high?

If our initial wash tests show shrinkage exceeding standard industry tolerances (typically +/- 3-5%), we adjust the patterns (pattern grading) to compensate for the shrinkage, ensuring the final garment meets the intended POMs.

Fabric sourcing brief

Describe the material and its use

Share intended garment, fiber, construction, target weight, color, usable width, quantity and acceptance criteria.

Request a sourcing review