Yield equation
Fabric consumption (m) = pattern surface area (m²) ÷ [(1 − scrap-loss fraction) × usable fabric width (m)]. Use the actual marker and usable width for the style.
Apparel unit economics · buyer guide
What determines clothing manufacturing cost?
A garment quote combines material consumption, cut-make-trim (CMT) labor, trims and embellishment, factory overhead, and shipment inputs. The right comparison follows each line item and its assumptions, not only the headline unit price.
Compare the operating model
An initial unit quote leaves assumptions to check
This page compares managed execution with direct sourcing. The values are illustrative comparisons, not a universal quote or guarantee; ask each supplier to show the actual inputs for your product and order.
| Cost input | Managed-model reference | Unmanaged direct sourcing comparison |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric yield | Engineered marker review; CAD marker efficiency reference: 82–88%. | Factory-estimated marker; manual layout efficiency reference: 72–78% and possible 5–12% greater fabric spend. |
| Labor | Managed execution uses pre-negotiated SAM benchmarks across partner facilities. | SAM and rates vary by factory workload and season. |
| MOQ | Managed-model reference: 50 pieces per style. | Traditional sourcing comparison: typically 500–3,000 pieces per style or colorway. |
| Sampling | 10–15 production days plus 3–5 days courier as a planning reference. | 30–60+ days in the traditional sourcing comparison; confirm the actual plan. |
| Quality | Managed-model quality references include ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II and AQL 2.5. | Scope depends on factory controls or separately commissioned inspection. |
| Delivery | Delivery references include DAP courier or FOB export-port options. | Traditional sourcing can use variable terms, often EXW with buyer-managed freight. |
Scroll horizontally to compare cost inputs.
Cost composition
Fabric can set the unit-cost direction
Planning estimates place fabric and materials at 50–70% of the CMT garment price. That makes composition, GSM, usable width, finish, marker efficiency, and scrap assumptions important quote inputs.
These are separate indicative shares; they may not sum to 100% at every endpoint.
Fabric and materials
50–70%
Composition, weight, width, finish, yield, and usable marker efficiency.
Cut, make, and trim labor
15–25%
Operations, Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM), and line efficiency.
Trims, thread, and packaging
5–10%
Labels, hardware, embellishment, thread, and packing components.
Factory overhead and margin
10–15%
Indicative share; treatment varies by quotation.
Marker efficiency
Planning references are 82–88% for standard automated CAD markers and 72–78% for unmanaged manual layouts. Actual yield depends on patterns, sizes, width, and placement constraints.
GSM effect
In this example, a 240 GSM cotton jersey T-shirt uses about 33% more raw fiber weight than a 180 GSM shirt, all else equal.
Yarn choice and finishing also affect material cost. Compare combed compact ring-spun yarn with carded open-end yarn; finishing considerations include stenter framing, mechanical compacting, enzyme washing, and reactive dyeing as processes that add cost.
Labor mechanics
Translate operations into SAM
Standard Allowed Minutes represent operation time under standard conditions with allowances for fatigue, adjustments, handling, and short thread breaks.
SAM = basic operation time × (1 + allowance factor)
Illustrative example
Crewneck T-shirt
10–14 SAM
The range reflects construction details such as double-needle topstitching.
Illustrative example
Technical hoodie
32–45 SAM
A pocket, lined hood, eyelets, and rib assembly add operations to the example.
A comparison of 60% and 85% line efficiency illustrates how output per clocked hour affects labor and overhead allocation. Actual SAM and efficiency assumptions must be agreed for the factory and garment.
Illustrative bills of materials
See how material and construction inputs add up
The following are illustrative scenarios for 500-unit batches, not current Fenalt quotations or price promises. Validate every consumption, rate, specification, and test assumption with the actual supplier and order.
Heavyweight cotton hoodie · illustrative total $19.80 per unit
| Component | Illustrative specification | Consumption and rate | Unit cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primary fabric | 400 GSM combed organic cotton fleece | 1.35 m × $7.20/m | $9.72 |
| Ribbing | 380 GSM 2×2 cotton rib | 0.22 m × $6.50/m | $1.43 |
| Pocket lining | 160 GSM single jersey | 0.15 m × $3.00/m | $0.45 |
| CMT labor | 38 SAM minutes; efficiency adjusted | 0.63 h × $6.50/h | $4.10 |
| Trims | Braided drawstring and metal aglets | 1 set | $0.85 |
| Labels and packaging | Woven neck label, care label, polybag, barcode | 1 set | $0.40 |
| Embellishment | Three-color chest screen print | 1 location | $0.65 |
| Overhead and margin | QC, packing, and factory margin | Direct cost allocation | $2.20 |
Scroll horizontally to compare cost inputs.
Three-layer technical jacket · illustrative total $42.00 per unit
| Component | Illustrative specification | Consumption and rate | Unit cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shell fabric | 3-layer ripstop nylon with TPU membrane | 1.85 m × $11.50/m | $21.28 |
| Seam tape | Waterproof PU hot-melt | 12.5 m × $0.18/m | $2.25 |
| CMT and seam taping | 72 SAM minutes; hot-air seam sealing | 1.20 h × $7.50/h | $9.00 |
| Zippers and hardware | Main zip and pocket zippers | 3 zippers | $3.40 |
| Labels and packaging | Hangtags, branded pulls, recycled polybag | 1 set | $0.95 |
| Overhead and margin | Inspection, waterproof testing, and margin | Direct cost allocation | $5.12 |
Scroll horizontally to compare cost inputs.
Batch size
Small runs spread fixed setup across fewer units
Pattern grading, marker creation, cutting setup, and line configuration are fixed or semi-fixed work. Dye-house batches below a vessel capacity, for example 300 kg, may incur a less-than-minimum surcharge. Confirm the actual mill or dye-house minimum and allocation before comparing unit prices.
A managed-model standard is 50 pieces per style; it also notes that small batches can carry higher setup cost per garment than larger runs.
Landed cost
Look beyond the FOB line
Landed-cost estimates use FOB unit cost, freight per unit, and customs import duty as inputs. Use the quote and applicable import calculation to define the transaction-specific total.
Estimation inputs: FOB + freight per unit + customs import duty
Costing a garment
Build a quote from your product inputs
Share the tech pack, material requirements, order quantity, and destination so the assumptions can be reviewed.
Discuss production costing