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Circular and fully fashioned production

Custom Knitwear Manufacturing

High-end knitwear depends on fiber selection, yarn count, gauge, tension and finishing working as one system. Fenalt manages both circular cut-and-sew and fully fashioned sweater production.

Vetted partner facilities, technical pattern development, lab dips, pre-production sampling and AQL 2.5 quality control keep the finished garment aligned with its tech pack.

Direct answer

Two knitwear methods, one managed technical route

Fenalt matches the manufacturing method to the silhouette, gauge, material and finish rather than forcing every knitwear brief through one factory pattern.

01

Circular cut-and-sew

French Terry, fleece and jersey are knitted as continuous fabric, then laid, cut and assembled with precision seams.

02

Fully fashioned knit

Front, back and sleeve panels are knitted directly to shape on computerized flat-bed machines from 3GG to 14GG, then linked stitch by stitch.

Cut-and-sew silhouettes

Oversized drop-shoulder hoodies use 380–500 GSM fleece or French Terry, structured crewnecks use compact ring-spun yarns and ribbing, and heavyweight tees use 220–300 GSM jersey.

Fully fashioned silhouettes

Fine-gauge crewnecks and turtlenecks use 12GG–14GG yarn systems; cable knits use 7GG–10GG; chunky cardigans use 3GG–5GG with plackets, buttons and structural colorwork.

Fabric engineering

Gauge, yarn and weight decide the hand-feel

Fabric classificationFiber optionsWeight / gaugeIdeal applications
Heavyweight French Terry100% combed cotton or 80/20 cotton/poly350–480 GSMPremium hoodies, sweatpants and crewnecks
Brushed fleeceCombed compact cotton or cotton/poly320–450 GSMCold-weather streetwear and loungewear
Single jersey100% combed compact ring-spun cotton180–280 GSMPremium tees, long sleeves and tanks
Fine fully fashioned knitMerino, cotton/acrylic or cashmere12GG–14GGTailored sweaters, turtlenecks and light cardigans
Coarse fully fashioned knitWool blends or chunky acrylic/cotton3GG–5GGCable cardigans, pullovers and knit outerwear

Gauge and machine selection

Circular cylinders are matched to yarn count for density and low spirality. Flat-bed systems from 3GG to 14GG support Jacquard, pointelle and structural rib without panel distortion.

Seam and linking protocol

Flatlock ISO 605, 4-thread overlock ISO 514 and 10–12 SPI support cut-and-sew stretch. Linking uses ISO 101 or ISO 401 to match panel stretch and prevent puckering.

Planning and quality

A controlled sequence from yarn to export

Sampling phase

10–15 days production plus 3–5 days courier dispatch. Tech pack, lab dips, sample knitting, fit and QC approval happen before bulk.

Bulk phase

15–20 days from pre-production sign-off. Yarn spinning or dyeing, knitting or cutting, assembly and QC lead to export dispatch.

Delivery terms

DAP is standard for small-batch courier shipments; FOB designated port of export is available for high-volume ocean freight.

01

Yarn and fabric testing

Colorfastness, dimensional stability, torque and bursting strength are tested before assembly.

02

In-line production controls

Gauge uniformity, stitch tension and linking integrity are checked on circular and flat-bed lines.

03

Final inspection

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II with an AQL 2.5 threshold covers appearance, structure, hardware and POM accuracy.

Inspection detail

The technical package stays visible at every gate

Colorfastness, dimensional stability, torque and bursting strength are tested on yarns and knitted rolls.

Gauge uniformity, stitch tension and linking operators are audited during knitting and assembly.

Final inspection classifies critical, major and minor defects under ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II and AQL 2.5.

Frequently asked questions

Knitwear manufacturing FAQs

What is the difference between circular cut-and-sew and fully fashioned knitwear?

Circular knitwear is made from continuous fabric rolls that are cut and sewn. Fully fashioned knitwear is knitted panel by panel to shape and linked stitch by stitch, reducing cutting waste and interior bulk.

What is the MOQ for custom knitwear?

The standard MOQ is 50 pieces per style across cut-and-sew hoodies, heavyweight tees and fully fashioned sweaters.

How do you control shrinkage and dimensional stability?

Circular fabrics use mechanical compacting and stenter framing; fully fashioned garments use controlled steaming and tumbling. Standard commercial tolerances apply across all POMs.

What inspection standard applies to bulk knitwear?

All batches receive final inspection under ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II with an AQL 2.5 acceptance threshold, including linking stability and measurements.

Can you produce custom yarn blends and Pantone colors?

Yes. Fenalt can develop fiber blends such as merino/cotton or organic cotton/recycled polyester and prepare Pantone TCX/TPX lab dips or yarn strike-offs.

What are the sampling and bulk lead times?

Sampling requires 10–15 days plus 3–5 days courier shipping. Bulk production takes 15–20 days from PP sign-off to export dispatch.

Which delivery terms are supported?

DAP supports small-batch courier shipments; FOB designated port of export supports bulk sea freight. Export documentation and logistics handoffs are coordinated.

Engineer your knitwear line

Start with the right gauge and yarn

Share your silhouette, target hand-feel and technical pack. Fenalt will map the correct knit method, materials, sampling and quality route.