Reactive dyeing
High-temperature reactive dyeing supports colorfastness to washing and crocking, with shade checks against approved standards.
Fabric material guide
Jersey Fabric Sourcing
Single jersey is a soft, printable weft-knit foundation for tees, baselayers, activewear, loungewear, and structured streetwear. Fenalt manages mill selection, yarn procurement, knitting, dyeing, finishing, and apparel execution.
Textile definition
A Plain Weft Knit with Distinct Face and Back
Single jersey uses one set of needles on a circular knitting machine. Its face shows vertical V-shaped wales, while the back shows horizontal semi-circular courses. That structure creates a soft hand, natural mechanical stretch, smooth print surface, and flexible drape.
The same structure can curl at the edge, develop torque after washing, or shrink excessively without proper yarn selection, compacting, stenter framing, and testing.
Weight and structure
Select GSM and Yarn Count for the Silhouette
A higher Ne count means a finer yarn; lower counts such as 16s and 20s create a denser, more structured jersey.
| Classification | GSM | Yarn count | Machine gauge | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Featherweight | 120–150 GSM | 36s/1–40s/1 | 28E–32E | Base layers, tissue tees, sleepwear |
| Standard midweight | 160–200 GSM | 30s/1–32s/1 | 24E–28E | Fashion tees, polo shirts |
| Heavyweight | 210–250 GSM | 20s/1–24s/1 | 20E–24E | Premium merch, structured streetwear |
| Super-heavyweight | 260–320 GSM | 16s/1 or 20s/2 | 18E–20E | Heavy streetwear, boxy silhouettes |
Finishing and testing
Control Curl, Torque, Shrinkage, and Pilling
Bio-polishing
Cellulase enzyme washing removes micro-fibrils, reduces pilling, and creates a smoother face for high-definition printing.
Compacting
Tubular or open-width compacting targets total laundering shrinkage below roughly 3%–5% in length and width.
Stenter framing
Open-width framing controls width, GSM distribution, grain line, and spirality, with a target torque angle under 3% after testing.
Quality checks
GSM is sampled across roll heads, middles, and tails; ISO 6330 wash testing checks dimensional stability; spectrophotometer readings verify Pantone TCX/TPG color under D65 light; fabric and finished garments follow ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II with an AQL 2.5 threshold.
Applications and commercial planning
From Baselayes to Heavy Streetwear
Core tees and baselayers
140–160 GSM and 180–210 GSM combed compact cotton jersey provide breathability, soft hand, and a smooth surface for screen print or DTG.
Structured streetwear tees
240–300+ GSM low-Ne 16s or 20s double-ply yarn supports boxy drop-shoulder silhouettes with structural rigidity.
Activewear tops
Poly-cotton, polyester-elastane, or modal blends add moisture management and recovery; performance finishes can be specified.
Loungewear and sleepwear
150–180 GSM cotton-modal or combed cotton can receive silicone or cellulase enzyme finishing for next-to-skin softness.
MOQ
50 pieces per style
Sampling
10–15 days + 3–5 days courier
Bulk
15–20 days after PP sign-off
Questions and answers
Jersey Fabric Sourcing FAQs
How does Fenalt prevent spirality in single jersey?
Fenalt specifies low-torque combed compact ring-spun yarn, balances S and Z twist where needed, and uses open-width stenter framing with mechanical compacting.
What is the difference between open-end and combed compact ring-spun yarn?
Open-end yarn uses shorter fibers and has a rougher hand with higher pilling risk. Combed compact ring-spun yarn aligns longer fibers for smoother, stronger, clearer-printing jersey.
What is the MOQ for custom dyed jersey?
Fenalt's standard apparel program MOQ is 50 pieces per style, including custom garment construction and custom-dyed single jersey matched to the designated Pantone reference.
How is cotton jersey shrinkage controlled?
Tubular or open-width compacting pre-shrinks the knit structure so laundering shrinkage remains within agreed commercial tolerances, typically 3%–5% maximum.
Can Fenalt source GOTS organic cotton jersey?
Yes. Certified organic cotton jersey can be sourced with transaction certificates supporting chain-of-custody documentation.
What inspection standard is used for jersey?
Fabric rolls and finished garments are checked under ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II with an AQL 2.5 acceptance threshold for visual defects, weight variation, and finish consistency.
Specify the right knit
Source Jersey That Holds Its Shape
Share your target GSM, yarn, color, hand-feel, silhouette, and destination. Fenalt can manage mill selection through finished-garment production.