01
Face yarn
Fine combed yarn around 30s–40s Ne creates a smooth exterior that resists pilling and supports printing and embroidery.
Custom circular-knit development
French Terry Fabric Sourcing & Manufacturing
French terry combines a smooth, printable face with soft, unbrushed interior loops for breathable structure across streetwear, luxury loungewear, and premium casual collections.
Fenalt coordinates yarn selection, circular knitting, custom Pantone reactive dyeing, and dimensional-stability finishing through a managed mill workflow.
Direct answer
A custom-milled loopback textile
Custom French terry sourcing lets a brand specify fiber composition, GSM, yarn count, loop geometry, and color rather than accepting generic stock with unknown shrinkage or inconsistent synthetic content.
Fenalt oversees custom knitting runs with certified circular knitting mills, then coordinates stenter and compacting processes before bulk garment cutting. The result is a fabric brief that connects loop construction to the finished silhouette, print surface, hand-feel, and wash performance.
Knit construction
Three yarns, one controlled fabric matrix
French terry uses a 3-end sequence. Each yarn has a separate job in the finished textile.
02
Tie yarn
A fine binding yarn, such as 40/1 Ne or a fine filament, locks the face and loops together and prevents loop pull-out.
03
Loop yarn
A thicker, lower-twist 10s–16s yarn feeds at looser tension to form the absorbent, plush reverse surface.
Weight planning
GSM sets the drape and application
Use yarn configuration and fabric weight together when translating a collection concept into a mill brief.
| Class | GSM | Yarn | Drape | Applications |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 240–280 GSM | 32s face / 16s loop | Soft, fluid drape | Spring T-shirts, lightweight cardigans, babywear, lounge shorts |
| Midweight | 300–360 GSM | 30s face / 12s loop | Balanced structure | Crewnecks, zip hoodies, joggers, sweat-shorts |
| Heavyweight | 380–450 GSM | 26s face / 10s loop | Firm, substantial hand | Premium hoodies, boxy crewnecks, structured sweatpants |
| Ultra-heavyweight | 480–550+ GSM | 20s face / 8s loop | Architectural and warm | Drop-shoulder streetwear, statement outerwear, winter sets |
Loop geometry
Straight loopback or diagonal French terry
Needle-track configuration changes the reverse texture, stretch behavior, and visual language of the fabric.
Standard loopback
Loops align in vertical columns parallel to the selvedge. The result is consistent two-way stretch, clean recovery, and a balanced hand suited to everyday commercial casualwear.
Diagonal French terry
A progressive needle offset creates a 45-degree rib pattern on the reverse. It is prized in premium and Japanese streetwear for texture, lateral stability, and a more structured drape.
Loopback versus brushed fleece
French terry keeps distinct loops for breathability, wicking, and trans-seasonal use. Brushed fleece mechanically naps the reverse into an insulating pile for colder seasons and may shed minor initial lint.
Finishing options
Reactive piece dyeing supports Pantone TCX matching; garment dyeing from PFD fabric creates lived-in highs and lows; enzyme washing improves the face; compacting and stenter heat-setting reduce residual shrinkage.
Quality and workflow
Test the fabric before cutting the garment
Weight consistency
Use circular punch-cutter evaluations across the left, center, and right of a roll.
Shrinkage
Wash-test vertical and horizontal dimensional change against agreed commercial limits.
Colorfastness
Audit home laundering, perspiration, and wet and dry rubbing performance.
Torque
Check loop alignment after laundering so sweatshirt side seams do not skew or twist.
- MOQ
- Fenalt standard minimum order quantities start at 50 pieces per style.
- Color development
- A, B, and C lab dips plus physical knit strike-offs can be reviewed for shade, weight, and loop evaluation.
- Dispatch
- Approved projects can be planned for DAP small-batch courier or FOB bulk sea freight.
Questions and answers
French terry sourcing FAQs
Can French terry be 100% cotton?
Yes. High-quality French terry is frequently milled from 100% combed ring-spun cotton. For activewear or fitted garments, 3% to 5% elastane can be added to the tie yarn for stretch and shape retention.
What makes diagonal French terry different?
A progressive needle offset creates an angled, twill-like loop pattern on the interior. It is popular in luxury streetwear and offers firmer lateral stability than straight loopback knit.
Does French terry shrink after washing?
Cotton circular knits can shrink if unfinished. Fenalt coordinates mechanical compacting and stenter heat-setting to minimize residual shrinkage within agreed industry tolerances.
What GSM works for a luxury streetwear hoodie?
A 400–480 GSM French terry creates substantial presence and a structured, boxy drape without artificial stiffening agents.
How is loopback terry different from toweling?
Loopback French terry has loops on the interior and a smooth face. Terry toweling has raised loops on both sides for maximum water absorbency.
Custom fabric development
Turn a loop structure into a reliable garment brief
Share your target GSM, fiber composition, loop style, color, and end use for a managed French terry sourcing plan.