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Raw-to-wash denim engineering

Denim & Jeans Manufacturing

Fenalt manages custom denim and jeans production across pattern engineering, indigo fabric, heavy-duty assembly, hardware, laundry, and export.

Launch rigid selvedge, comfort stretch, vintage-washed jeans, or denim outerwear with a 50-piece-per-style MOQ and AQL 2.5 inspection.

Direct answer

One managed denim workflow

Fenalt integrates mills, laundry, hardware, and cut-and-sew units under one production path. We translate the tech pack, adjust the pattern for wash shrinkage, source custom shanks and rivets, coordinate heavy stitching, and approve dry and wet finishing.

The result is a production-ready denim style with wash evidence, standard industry tolerances across waist, rise, thigh, knee, and leg opening, and final inspection under ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II with AQL 2.5.

Silhouette engineering

Denim styles built for fabric behavior

01

Classic straight and rigid

12.5–16 oz rigid denim, five pockets, copper shanks, bartacks, flat-felled back rise, and chain-stitched leg openings suit heritage, streetwear, and workwear.

02

Modern tapered and slim

10.5–12.5 oz stretch denim uses a contoured waistband, reinforced TC 65/35 pocketing, and narrow lock-stitched side seams for a clean cuff roll.

03

Loose, wide-leg, and utility

13–15 oz denim supports articulated knees, expandable bellow cargo pockets, heavy snaps, double-layer seats, and three-needle chain stitching.

04

Jackets and overshirts

11–14.5 oz denim supports truckers, chore coats, and overshirts with welt pockets, flap chest pockets, adjusters, and branded tack buttons.

Material selection

Denim weight and composition

ClassificationCompositionWeightBest suited for
Rigid heavyweight100% combed ring-spun cotton13.5–16 oz / 457–542 GSMRaw jeans, heritage jackets, heavy workwear
Midweight comfort stretch98% cotton / 2% elastane10.5–12.5 oz / 356–423 GSMSlim jeans and daily lifestyle pants
Authentic selvedge100% cotton shuttle-loom12–15 oz / 406–508 GSMPremium collections and limited drops
Lightweight denim / chambrayCotton or cotton / Tencel6–9 oz / 203–305 GSMShirts, summer chore pieces, light dresses
Eco-performance denim70% organic cotton / 28% recycled poly / 2% elastane11–13 oz / 373–440 GSMTechnical lifestyle and sustainable streetwear

Construction and laundry

The denim details that survive the wash

Heavy fabric, high-tensile thread, and calibrated laundry must be specified together.

Seam engineering

Structural seams use 8–10 SPI; topstitch and pocket decoration use 10–12 SPI. Tex 60–80 core-spun polyester or poly-wrapped cotton supports wash tension. Flat-felled seams use feed-off-the-arm double or triple needle chain stitch.

8–12 SPI

Hardware

Copper or zinc-alloy shanks and rivets, 28-stitch bartacks, No. 5 antique brass or nickel auto-lock zippers, and a chain-stitched waistband with bias-cut canvas stiffener support the garment.

SHANKS / RIVETS / YKK

Dry and wet processing

Hand scraping, resin whiskers, pocket-edge grinding, laser distressing, enzyme bio-wash, calibrated stone wash, bio-polish, sulfur or direct tinting, atmospheric ozone, and waterless laser oxidation are coordinated through wash swatches.

WET + DRY LAUNDRY

Production workflow

From shrink calculation to export

  1. 01

    Tech pack and shrink calculation

    Warp and weft shrinkage is measured from the wash recipe, commonly 3%–8%, and built into the digital pattern.

  2. 02

    Sampling and wash blanket

    Sampling takes 10–15 days plus 3–5 days courier; the PP sample travels with a wash blanket showing color and surface options.

  3. 03

    Bulk cut and sew

    Relaxed rolls are CNC cut, then dedicated denim lines assemble the garment before laundry.

  4. 04

    Laundry and final trims

    Enzyme, stone, laser, ozone, or approved finishing is followed by hems, leather patches, metal checks, and packing.

  5. 05

    Dispatch

    DAP supports small batches and FOB the designated export port supports bulk sea freight.

Managed quality

Denim inspection beyond appearance

AQL

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Level II with AQL 2.5.

Dimensions

Standard industry tolerances across POM.

Crocking

Wet and dry tests under AATCC methods; medium-to-dark indigo targets at least Grade 3.0 dry crocking.

Hardware

Rivets and shanks tensile tested; minimum 90 N pull force specified in the draft.

Metal detection

Finished garments pass dual-head detection before polybagging.

Questions and answers

Denim manufacturing FAQs

What is the MOQ?

Fenalt's standard MOQ is 50 pieces per style.

How is wash shrinkage controlled?

Wash blankets run through the intended wet and dry recipe first. Warp and weft shrinkage, often 3% to 8% depending on fabric and recipe, is used to scale the digital pattern before bulk cutting.

Which wash options are available?

Stone, enzyme bio-wash, bleach fading, tinting, ozone washing, laser distressing, hand scraping, and sulfur or direct overdyeing can be developed through approved wash swatches.

What are the lead times?

Sampling is 10–15 days plus 3–5 days shipping. Bulk is 15–20 days from PP sample and wash approval to export dispatch.

Can you develop hardware and leather patches?

Yes. Custom shanks, copper rivets, zipper pulls, jacron or genuine leather waist patches, and branded hardware can be coordinated with vector files during sampling.

How are final shipments handled?

DAP supports small-batch courier delivery; FOB designated port of export supports bulk sea freight.

Start your denim line

Develop the wash before the bulk

Send your block, denim weight, hardware, wash reference, quantity, and destination. Fenalt will build the approval path.